Last night in Paris saw the finale of the Spring Summer 2018 menswear fashion shows. The season kicked off in London two weeks ago with a most extensive offering of collections from the freshest contemporary names, to the most established sartorial institutions.
Amongst our favourite of the catwalk collections was British style stalwart, Burberry, with their homecoming return to the capital after years of showing in Milan. “Writers and Painters” was the inspiration behind designer Creative Director Christopher Bailey’s thinking. The writer was Alan Bennett; the painter was David Hockney. These influences could be seen in the primary colour palette, quirky shoes and glasses, and the relaxed, almost slouchy edge to the cut of the pieces.
After London, the fashion pack flew to Milan where our pick of the season was seen on the catwalks of Marc Jacobs (above). Suits cut in soft, pastel shades, with painterly floral ties were contrasted against retro-Vegas inspired bold pieces; the famous graffiti artist, Bast, hailing from Brooklyn, also left his mark on the Hawaiian shirts and hand-painted sneakers. There was something to appeal to every gent’s taste in this collection.
Next up on the agenda was Paris. On the Louis Vuitton (below) catwalk, we were taught how to dress for an American road trip like a grown up, with silk varsity jackets, crocodile elbow patches and elegant tie-dyeing intermixed with expertly tailored Wall Street suiting. Taking a large step away from anything too ‘fashion’, creative director Alber Elbaz’s collection for Lanvin (below) offered “a new way of being elegant”; moving away from the bold and the graphical, the pieces coming out of Lanvin for SS14 were highlighted with textures over prints, and expressed through clean silhouettes and minimal accessories.
Tom Ford’s show was the dark wonder that it always is, full of soft cuts and sly lines, just beautiful. Also debuted there was the new line of Tom Ford glasses – a fab selection of eyewear for the fashion conscious, ranging from the traditional styles that we know from his sunglasses to far more out-there creations
Later in the day, we saw Paul Smith’s (below) new line for SS14, taking a whole new angle on things again; with a distinct lack of formal tailoring to be seen, instead the collection focused on the art of modern smart-casual and the collision of sportswear and suiting. Asymmetry was key in highlighting this juxtaposition, with intersecting bands of bold colours, elongated collars and trapezoidal silhouettes.